Grand Turk

Bottom line: This was my second visit to Grand Turk within 3 years, and second time diving with Sea Eye, so that says something. Aside from lovely diving, I find quite a lot to like in such a scrubby little place that is its own character. I commend a visit to Grand Turk to anyone that is looking for friendly, easy, hassle-free and fish-rich diving that is off the beaten path and without crowds. As there is talk of starting to build a cruise ship pier, some of the best aspects of Grand Turk may change, so anyone interested in a slower unique experience needs to hurry down.

First to dispense with what I imagine might aggravate some folks. It takes the better part of a day arriving, flying into Provo via Miami to meet up a puddle jumper to Grand Turk. Layovers aren't too bad; you start early and arrive mid-afternoon, though Sky King may charge an extra $10 or so if your bags are too heavy. Beyond that, be prepared for island time and attitude. For me that’s manageable, but people need to be ready for it, this isn't Florida. For example, nightlife is the conversation or camaraderie you might develop at a couple of the hotels (singing by a local dive master a couple nights a week), or what you create on your own. There is no glitz or duty free shopping. You may want to bring a good book to enjoy on the gorgeous beaches that you have to yourself. Then there's this: no one in either of my visits ever asked to see a log or c-card. I guess the presumption is that you are an adult and know what you are doing. (I did and figured the liability was more theirs than mine.) Additionally be forewarned, if you arrange to take any kind of specialty course with Sea Eye, it may end up being half-baked. (I can't speak for their sister company next door, Oasis Divers -- I suspect they may be a bit more disciplined about some of that.) And for the time conscious, boat launch time was nominally 8:30 -- they sometimes made it by nine, but could be as much as an hour later. This too failed to bother me as I was more than once the cause of hold up (the only other diver that day was my dive buddy anyway) due to my u/w camera machinations. Sea Eye's attitude is that you are there to relax and dive, and does everything possible to allow you the most of both.

The diving...As noted we dove with Sea Eye, and a longtime dive master/boat driver named Smitty who is legendary for his perfect buoyancy and his help to newbie and even more experienced divers to shed lead. Smitty provided as much or as little set-up and assist service as each diver wanted. When the group was small, we rode the 5 - 10 minutes to dive sites in Caroline skiffs, returning to shore for surface intervals. Sea Eye also has a large boat when the group size exceeds 6 people. This trip we had some of each.

What Grand Turk offers diving-wise is diving without being part of a mass crowd, and being allowed to dive your own profile and time without ever being rushed. You could choose between sticking with the dive master, who seems to love every dive he ever takes, or going your own way. Most first dives were along the wall at about 80-90 feet going gradually shallower to scenic safety stops among lively coral heads, second dives starting a bit shallower; most bottom times were an hour-plus. If another boat was anywhere nearby, we'd simply go to another mooring. That meant no more than a handful of divers at any particular location. You feel as though it’s all yours.

Grand Turk also offers a lot of healthy reefs and fish life, with lovely arches and swim-throughs here and there. I've not yet been to Bonaire so can't compare the two. I can only say Grand Turk has offered, at least on my two visits, exceptionally calm, easy diving conditions with little or now chop or current. It truly is a no-seasick zone. Grand Turk is dry, limiting runoff that can impair visibility. Ours was 60 to perhaps 100 ft vis most dives. Fish life was the usual Caribbean mix - lots of schools of grunts, tang, snappers, Atlantic Spadefish and the like. Saw several baby and adult spotted drum, scrawled file fish, porcupine fish, trunk fish, cow fish, a few turtles, a couple mantas. Saw coneys, schoolmaster, lizard-fish, and some very nice large groupers who seemed accustomed to divers. Additionally, spotted and green eels, banded coral shrimp, baby seahorse; lots of trumpet fish, crabs, several resting Nurse shark, several scorpion fish; clams crabs; the usual feisty damsels and assortment of coral-chomping parrot fishes, peacock founders, stingrays, and plenty of juvenile and adult french and queen angelfish. We also were treated to a lovely chorus line of about 10 squid evenly spaced abreast, and on the previous visit, had a visit of a pod of wild dolphins to check us out. Grand Turk is on a whale shark winter migration route, but we were too late in the season to catch those. I'm sure I've forgotten to list things we've seen there.

A couple of night dives was a highlight as we were there 5 days after the full moon for maximum bioluminescence. First half of the dives were with lights so we could see the corals and crabs eating, lobsters out and about, parrotfish sleeping in their mucous membranes and other nighttime treats. Then it was lights out. With everyone cooperating the effect was spectacular, long "strings" of lights everywhere, it was like swimming through a fantasyland of Christmas lights, or through a galaxy of billions of bright stars. The light was enough to make out fellow divers a few feet away. I've seen bioluminescence before but it makes a real difference when everyone cooperates and your eyes can really adjust to what’s there. Quite a spiritual experience. Smitty says in winter you can do the same swim to whale songs in the background.

One warning I'd give to photogs: fresh water is at a premium on Grand Turk and typically there are no camera rinse tanks. You need to ask and ask again. My solution having been there once was to lug my own water bag with a few inches of water at the bottom. This had doubled as one of my carry-on bags so this solution worked just fine.

Accommodations and other topside considerations. On our first visit to Grand Turk, we stayed at the Turks Head Inn, a lovely historic property that was once the American Consulate on the island, which had been converted to a B&B. However that seemed to have been taken over for the foreseeable future by a cable movie crew. The only other choice Sea Eye suggested was the Osprey Beach Hotel, which is conveniently across the street from the Dive shop. (Actually there are a few additional options on the Island such as Island House and Arches, but they are not as convenient.) While investigating the situation through some local calling, I stumbled across a wonderful deal for accommodations. A lady who was helping out at Turks Head said she had a property to rent, which we took her up on. It ended up being a great deal as it is a beautiful, air-conditioned fully equipped 2 bedroom condo on a private beach, for @ 135 a night for 3 people. It has washer/dryer, a fully equipped kitchen, dining room, living room, cable TV, plenty of balconies for hanging stuff to dry. It comfortably sleeps 4 - 5 people. Each morning Sea Eye would motor down in the boat to scoop us up as we waited on the porch, to join the other divers for the day. They of course delivered us home in the afternoons (by land it was about a 10 minute walk to seaeye from the condo, but heaven forbid we should walk!) Now the owner, Mary Slash, is working through a rental company, and has raised her rates a bit, but its still an excellent deal, the best deal on the island, at $150 a night for a couple, a bit more for added people. An email to make arrangements for her unit in "Aqua House" is Tanya, at 649-241-8272, email is starfish69032yahoo.com.

Food on Grand Turk is not cheap, do not expect the grand all-you can eat buffets of some dive resorts. You will be happiest of you are a fish-eater. A recommendation if you are going the condo route, is to bring along a few pouches of tuna, nuts, and other goodies you can cobble into lunches, as grocery selection on the island is expensive and not at all exciting. (We visited 4 different locations before finally finding some eggs for making breakfasts.) Decent "restaurant" food can had along Duke Street (Water's Edge, Osprey Beach Hotel). Dinner tab excluding alcohol runs $20-25. But the best seafood is to be had at Chubby's aka "Saps." He is the son of John Misik, the town fisherman, and at his chronically half-finished place out on the North Fork, he cooks a very fresh and delicious grouper meal for $10. He serves up an evening of entertainment along with the meal. As most dive visitors to Grand Turk don't bother getting a car, Chubby will come pick you up wherever you are if you call him. He will take you to his place, and deliver you home afterwards. (If you are game, he also will take you to see the lighthouse or the flamingoes. He wants no money, he just wants people to like Grand Turk.)

That is the essence of the place. No place is free of issues but Grand Turk is a most friendly and welcoming destination. It isn't gentrified and most of its inhabitants get along but not a lot of conspicuous wealth consumption. You'll see homes w/o indoor plumbing. It is its own character un-jaded by overwhelming tourism. Most everyone says hello, asks how you're doing, and expects a response.

Additional details:

No need for a car

6-day diving package with Sea eye 360 (two a.m. dives/day); unlimited shore diving (but from where?) CI@tciway.tc

Oasis and Blue water are the other dive ops, all come highly commended.

Optional night or afternoon dives (for 50 and 35 respectively), very easily arranged

Rental shorties, BCs, regs, fins, masks available

English is the language and dollar is the currency

Electricity is compatible with your US computer/battery chargers etc

I am happy to answer questions from anyone contemplating a Grand Turk visit.

Gloria F.